Threaded Fittings
Steel threaded fittings are more than likely the oldest way to join piping systems. They are typically used for small pipe diameters in low-cost applications like domestic water, fire protection, and industrial cooling water systems. The threaded pipe fittings we stock are mainly made from SS 304 and SS 316.
Benefits of Steel Threaded Fittings
No installation skills required
Steel threaded fittings installation ranges in difficulty from “ anyone can do it ” to “ needs ultra-specialized certifications. ” When you decide to use threaded pipes and fittings, you won't need someone with top-tier qualifications to install pipes, and, more importantly, maintain those pipes. This saves you money on the initial hiring of contractors, as well as on continued upkeep.Instead of spending more and waiting for a specialized technician to visit your facility, any maintenance worker who understands pipes can install, maintain, and replace threaded pipe fittings.
The economic option
In addition to saving money on the employee side of things, you'll also save on the components themselves. When you use plastic piping, such as HDPE or PVC, you won't need to spend nearly as much on materials. Metal piping is better for high-pressure situations but unnecessary in most other applications. There's no need to pay more if there isn't a significant benefit associated, so save your business a bit of money by choosing injection-molded steel threaded fittings.
Less joining force is needed
One big downside to metal pipes is that, in many cases, a welding torch is required to join pipes. This certainly creates a strong connection, but it also takes a lot of time. With steel threaded fittings, a simple screw-on motion is all that's needed to attach, and detach, parts. This means less time spent on plastic pipe protector installation and the possibility for simple replacements when the time comes.
•Pressure Rating up to 20 BAR (300 PSI)
• Female threads are BSPP (Parallel) to ISO 228-1 or ASME/ANSI B1.20.1
• Male Threads are BSPT (Taper) to ISO 7-1 or ASME/ANSI B1.20.1
• 304, 316, 316L stainless steel
• Sizes 1/8" to 4"
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Bolt
Bolt is used to connect two thin parts. There is a through hole on the connected part. There is a gap between rod and hole of through bolt. Its processing requirement of through hole is general, the structure is simple, the assembly and disassembly are convenient. It is widely applied. Reamed hole bolt (GB/T 27) hole and screw often adopt transitional fit such as H7/m6, H7/n6. This kind of connection can accurately fix the relative position of the connected parts. It is suitable for bearing lateral load, but the CNC machining accuracy of the hole is relatively demanding, and it is often used with drills and reaming.
Stud bolt
Stud bolt is used to connect a thick piece, not suitable to connect with bolts. The thick parts need to be disassembled frequently with poor strength. A threaded hole is machined on a thick part, a smooth hole is machined on a thin part, a bolt is screwed into the threaded hole, and a nut is used to tighten the thin part.
Screw
Bolts (or screws) are directly screwed into the threaded holes of the connected parts without nuts. The structure is simpler and more compact than that of stud bolts. It is used for the thicker one of the two parts, but disassembly is not required to avoid damage to the threaded hole.
Set screw
The end of the thread screwed into the threaded hole of the part is used to withstand the surface of another part or into a recess on the other part to fix relative position of the two parts. This connection is simple, and some parts can be arbitrarily changed in the circumferential or axial position for adjustment, such as fixing of electrical switch knobs.
Countersunk screw
Countersunk screw is used for low strength requirements, and the thread diameter is less than 10mm. The head of the screw or part of it sinks into the connected part. This structure is mostly used in a flat outer surface, such as a panel.
Self-tapping screw
Self-tapping Screw is used for weak connection. But generally speaking, the bottom hole should be made in advance. If a self-drilling and self-tapping screw with a drill is adopted, there is no need to prefabricate the bottom hole used for non-ferrous metals, wood, etc.
Wood screw
Wood screw is used for wooden structures. Given that the hardness of the material and the length of the wood screw, wooden parts may not be prefabricated or prefabricated with a certain size and depth.
Self-tapping lock screw
The thread has an arc-shaped triangular interface, and the screw is hardened on the surface and can be screwed into a prefabricated hole of metal material and be extruded to form an internal thread. The internal thread formed by extrusion is more than 30% stronger than the cut one. The small tensile strength of the screw is 800MPa. Self-tapping locking screws have low tightening torque and high locking performance. They have been widely used in household appliances, electrical engineering and automobile industries.
Fastener-Assembly
Washers and external threaded fasteners are assembled and supplied as a set after being produced by a standard professional factory. This kind of connector is convenient, time-saving, safe and reliable, used in tight connection, such as terminal posts in electrical cabinets.
Steel Threaded Fitting Shapes and Styles
Tee
A tee is one of the most common types of pipe fittings and is used to combine or divide the flow of fluids. Tees have three openings to create a “T shape” and most often connect pipes of identical sizes, though they can be used to connect pipes with varying diameters as well.
Adapter
A steel pipe adapter is a fitting that connects together pipes of different materials or sizes. There are several varieties of adapters, including expansion adapters, bell adapters and adapter spools. Expansion adapters are designed with a flexible section that can absorb the expansion or contraction from two dissimilar pipe materials. Bell adapters have a stainless-steel backup ring to keep the seal between their adjoining pipes tight. Finally, adapter spools have openings on each end with different diameters, allowing pipes of different sizes to be connected.
Elbow
An elbow is an adapter that’s installed between two lengths of pipe to create a change of direction. Elbows are typically designed at 45-degree angles (called a “45 bend”) or 90-degree angles (called a “quarter bend”), though 22.5-degree elbow fittings are sometimes also used. Elbows are commonly applied in water-supply facilities, food, chemical and electronic industrial pipeline networks, agriculture and garden production, air conditioning pipelines, and solar energy facility piping. Similarly, longer pipe elbows can be used in low pressure, gravity fed systems.
Cross
A cross, also known as a four-way fitting, is the center point of a four-way connection, with one inlet and three outlets. Because they are at the center of four connection points, cross fittings may cause stress to pipes, especially as temperatures change. Crosses are commonly used in fire sprinklers and other systems where temperature change is not an issue.
Coupling
Like an adapter, a coupling connects two pipes together. However, where an adapter is meant to connect two pipes of different materials or sizes, a coupling connects like pipes. There are two types of steel pipe couplings: regular and slip. A regular coupling has a small ridge in its center that prevents a pipe from being over-inserted (which would result in the under-insertion of the second pipe and therefore a compromised connection). A slip coupling, on the other hand, is made without this ridge, allowing it to be slipped into place at any level. Slip coupling is often used in pipe repair, such as in instances where a pipe has a leak or had to be cut temporarily during a project.
Union
Like a coupling, a union connects two identical pipes, but it’s different in that it allows for easy disconnection of the pipes. Unions are most often used in systems where disassembly is necessary, such as those that require maintenance. A union consists of three parts: a nut, a female end and a male end. When the female and male ends are connected, the nut is used to seal the joint.
Nipple
A nipple is a short steel stub of pipe that connects two other fittings of equal diameter. Nipples are commonly used in plumbing systems and with hoses.
Cap
A cap is an airtight cover that is used to close the open end of a pipe. Caps attach to the outside of pipes and may be round, square, rectangular, U-shaped or I-shaped.
Types of Steel Threaded Fittings
Straight thread
It is one of the common threaded pipe fitting types and allows ease of usage, especially in applications that do not require a tight fit.
Pipe thread
These pipe fittings are essential in applications requiring a watertight sealing effect. These fittings have strong sealing and can be difficult to use at times, and thus require careful selection in terms of size.
Tapered thread
These pipe fittings are essential for applications requiring a tight fit. The tapered threads of these pipe fittings offer a strong sealing effect and thus require accurate sizing for the thread per application.
Per thread types: Male and female threads
One must select the right threaded pipe fittings per the thread type. These fittings are available as:
● Male threaded pipe fittings: These pipe fittings, like bolts, have threads on the outside.
● Female threaded pipe fittings: These pipe fittings, like nuts, have threads on the inside.
Selecting threaded pipe fittings requires special equipment like thread pitch gauge and verniercaliper. After measuring the threads, check the male and female threads. It is also essential to check if the threads are parallel or tapered.
Per thread size
Selecting threaded pipe fittings per their thread size ensures efficient fittings. It is also essential to understand the thread sizes, for instance, ¾” is the same as ¾”.
BSPP threads
Parallel Pipe (BSPP) is another variety of BSP threads known as G threads and has a standard diameter. These threads do not provide similar sealing as BSP.
BSPT threads
Standard Pipe Thread (BSPT) threads are another type of BSP. These threads have a tapered end on their outer dimension. These fittings find applications as seating and require a sealer or lubricant for effective sealing.
NPTF threads
National Pipe Taper Fuel (NPTF) is called Dryseal American National Standard Taper Pipe Thread. They offer leakage-proof sealing without any sealing agent. They find applications where the use of NPT threads is not possible. For instance, when there is a chance of contamination of fluids in the pipe due to sealant material. These fittings also find application in critical sealing requirements, where the sealant can fail under pressure and heat.
How Do You Join Steel Threaded Fittings?
1. Secure the pipe firmly in a vise
Loosen the jaws of the vise by turning the handle counterclockwise just far enough to fit the pipe between them. Place the pipe in the vise so the end you want to thread is sticking out, then turn the handle back clockwise to tighten it and secure it in place.
● Note that you can use either a regular table vise or a pipe vise that is specially designed for holding piping in place.
● This method uses a ratcheting pipe threader to cut threads into the end of a pipe. A ratcheting pipe threader consists of a long ratcheting handle that holds a circular die head at one end, which is a ring with several sets of teeth inside of it that cut the threads. When you ratchet the handle, the die head spins onto the end of the pipe, cutting the threads as it goes on.
● If you don't have all the equipment or don't want to purchase or rent it, you can also have pipes threaded for you at a home improvement center.
2. Put on work gloves and safety glasses
These will protect your hands and eyes from any metal slivers and accidental cuts. It will also keep your hands clean as you lubricate the pipe and pipe threader throughout the process.
● You can just wear 1 work glove if you prefer to leave 1 hand bare to grip the handle of pipe threader better.
3. Cut and ream the pipe if you need to make it a different length
Use a pipe cutter or a hacksaw to cut the pipe to length. Insert a reamer in the cut end of the pipe and rotate it around to remove sharp burrs and smooth the end out.
● A reamer is a cone-shaped manual rotary cutting tool that removes the rough edges of a cut pipe as you rotate it around inside of the cut end.
4. Choose a die head based on the pipe's diameter
Read the numbers on the different die heads for the ratcheting pipe threader to see what sizes they are. Select a die head that is of the appropriate size for the pipe you want to add threads to.
● A die head is the part of the pipe threader that actually cuts the threads. Ratcheting pipe threaders typically come with die heads in a few different common diameters. The face of the die head has numbers on it that indicate the size of pipe it is for. For example, if it says 1/2 on it, the die head is for threading 1/2-inch steel threaded fittings.
● You can purchase or rent a ratcheting pipe threader and die heads at a home improvement center or hardware store. An inexpensive ratcheting pipe threader with 5-6 different die heads costs between $40-$60 USD.
5. Attach the die head to a ratcheting pipe threader handle
Remove any die head that is already in the handle by pulling it out. Slide your selected die head into ring at the end of the handle until it snaps all the way into place.
● The ratcheting handle is the handle you use to move it around the end of the pipe to cut the threads in it.
6. Lubricate the end of the pipe with threading oil
Apply a generous squeeze or two of threading oil to the outside end of the pipe. This will lubricate it so it's easier to put the die head on as well as lubricate the teeth of the die head, making it easier to cut the threads.
● Don't worry about applying too much lubricant. You need a lot to get the job done, so just squirt away until you have completely saturated the outside end of the pipe that you are going to cut threads into.
7. Place the die head onto the end of the pipe
Slide the center hole of the die cutter onto the end of the pipe. Push it into place as far as it will go.
If it's hard to get onto the pipe, you can squirt some more threading oil onto the pipe and the middle of the die head to make it easier.
8. Ratchet the handle while applying pressure to the die head to start cutting
Push against the die head, towards the pipe, with 1 hand. Ratchet the pipe threader's handle clockwise with your other hand as far as you can go, maintaining pressure on the die head as you do so to make the teeth start cutting into the pipe.
If you feel resistance as you do this, then you know the teeth are biting into the pipe and starting to cut the threads. If you don't feel any resistance, you probably need to push harder on the die head.
Lubricate the exposed teeth of the die head
Squeeze more threading oil onto all the teeth of the die head that are not yet cutting into the pipe. This is important to make cutting easier and prevent wear and tear on the teeth.
Don't be shy about squirting on the threading oil. You can't use too much lubricant during this process.
Keep ratcheting the handle until all the die head's teeth have cut into the pipe
Turn the handle back counterclockwise about 3/4 of the way, then ratchet it clockwise as far as you can go, using your bodyweight to help you turn it. Repeat this until all the die head's teeth are around the pipe, which means all the steel threaded fittings have been cut.
If at any point you feel increased resistance while cutting, stop ratcheting and apply more threading oil to the exposed teeth of the die head.
Reverse the direction of the ratchet handle and ratchet it off the threads
Pull up the little black knob next to the die head and turn it to reverse the direction of the ratchet handle. Ratchet it counterclockwise as far as it will go, then turn it back clockwise about 3/4 of the way, and repeat until you have unscrewed the teeth of the die head from the threads.
When you have unscrewed the die head all the way, you can simply pull it to slide it off the end of the pipe.
Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threads at the end of the pipe
Seal the threads with 2-3 wraps of teflon tape before you attach any connectors or steel threaded fittings. This will ensure a tight, well-sealed connection.
You can also use a liquid pipe thread compound instead of Teflon tape to create a strong seal.
How To Stop Leaks At Steel Threaded Fittings Joints
Turn off the water.Cut the pipe on either side of the leak at least an inch away from the fitting. This will allow you to unscrew the fitting at the pipes joint.
Now disconnect the leaking joint, you can use pliers or an adjustable wrench. Firmly hold one side of the fitting while turning the other side anticlockwise to loosen and then separate the two pieces.
Clean both the male and female fittings threads, use a wire brush to remove any old pipe corrosion, compound or debris. A standard wire brush is best for cleaning the male fitting, but for a female connection, you will need a wire bottlebrush.
Apply a good coat of pipe joint compound to the threads on the male fitting, you don't need to apply the joint compound to the female side. If you are using thread tape instead of joint compound, wrap the male steel threaded fittings with several layers of tape.
Thread the male fitting into the female fitting and tighten it until snug, then apply an extra half turn using your pliers or wrench.
Install a coupling to reconnect the pipes. PVC pipes will need to have the ends cleaned with a PVC cleaner. Apply a generous amount of PVC glue to the pipes and connect with the coupling. If using copper pipes, you'll need to clean the end of the pipe using sandpaper, apply the pipe flux and join the two steel threaded fittings with a copper coupling and solder them together.
Turn on the water supply to check for leaks.
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Asked Question
Q: What is the standard for threaded fittings?
Q: How tight should steel pipe fittings be?
Q: How do you join threaded steel pipes?
Q: When should you stop threading pipes?
Q: What are the materials used to make steel threaded fittings?
Q: What are some common types of steel threaded fittings?
Q: What are the advantages of using steel threaded fittings?
Q: How are steel threaded fittings installed?
Q: What are some common applications of steel threaded fittings?
Q: Are steel threaded fittings reliable?
Q: What are steel threaded fittings?
Q: What materials are used to make steel threaded fittings?
Q: What types of steel threaded fittings are available?
Q: What are the benefits of using steel threaded fittings?
Q: How do you install steel threaded fittings?
Q: What maintenance is required for steel threaded fittings?
Q: What are some common applications for steel threaded fittings?
Q: How deep do pipe threads need to be?
Q: How many turns should a threaded fitting screw on by hand?
Q: How tight should threaded pipe fittings be?
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